Nights to Remember
October 18, 1998

While most of the area's early Vietnamese restaurants have remained static and have grown a little shabby, losing ground in the increasing competition, Nam-Viet has only improved. That's what shows in its big, bright new in-town branch: a matter-of-fact excellence. While the atmosphere is hardly cozy or personal, and the service seems harried, every dish shows care. The meats and fish are plump and juicy, the vegetables bright and crisp, and the sauces, most with a touch of sweetness and some curry fire are light-textured and highly perfumed.
The long menu is too much to explore on one visit, but you can safely put yourself in the hands of your waiter. The shrimp toast is unusual, with a crisp layer of rice paper on the bottom and a haunting flavor. Grilled pork and beef dishes are crusty and fetchingly marinated. But the restaurant's unique quality shows in fish dishes, grilled, curried or braised in a sweet-salty caramel and black pepper sauce. Seek it out, to be reminded how light and delicate yet intruiging Vietnamese cooking can be.